A few days ago, I started building an ukulele.  I've wanted to attempt a stringed instrument for a while, and winter break seemed like a good time to start.  

First, I browsed uke pics to get an idea of the proportions.  I learned from Wikipedia that ukuleles are classified by size.  

Type Scale length[26] Total length Tuning[27]
soprano or standard 13″ (33 cm) 21″ (53 cm) A4-D4-F#4-B4 or G4-C4-E4-A4
concert 15″ (38 cm) 23″ (58 cm) G4-C4-E4-A4, or G3-C4-E4-A4
tenor 17″ (43 cm) 26″ (66 cm) G3-C4-E4-A4, G4-C4-E4-A4 , or D4-G3-B3-E4
baritone 19″ (48 cm) 30″ (76 cm) D3-G3-B3-E4

I settled on a tenor because I figured I could get away with larger tolerances, but I still wanted some degree of portability.


Design

I first found some diagrams to get an idea of scale.  A search turned up this diagram of an ukulele neck, and I  used this as a template for mine.  

A great little program called FretFind helped me layout the locations of the frets, as well as sizes of the neck, nut and bridge.

Build 

  I started by carving the neck out of a chunk of tulip poplar.  I made rough cuts with a pruning saw then followed up with a chisel and a gouge.  It’s a pretty soft wood with a dead straight grain.


I’m using a machinist’s vise.  My wooden jaws were back at MITERS, so I taped some thin plywood to the jaws so it wouldn’t mark up the workpiece.

done with the first round of chiseling.  

I wanted to inlay a fretboard, something a bit more durable than the poplar.  To make room for the inlay, I set the blade on the table saw to about 3/16″ and took some slices out of the top of the neck. 

After that, it was easy to clean it up and flatten it out with a straight chisel.

glue applied
The fretboard – It's a piece of bloodwood that my Dad had leftover from a repair job.
The spring clamps weren't as snug as I would've liked, so I later used C clamps instead.

Tuning Pegs

I opted out of using geared tuners since the tension on the strings won't be anywhere near that of a steel string guitar.  Instead, I made wood tuning pegs.  
 
That's a small piece of white oak that I sloppily cut with a coping saw.  I whittled it down with a knife until it stopped looking so boxy, but it still wasn't round enough.
 

I hesitate to use the word lathe…
 
Enter the inverted cordless drill in a vise!
 
This worked surprisingly well.  I'd put the smallest end of the peg in the chuck, operate the drill with my left hand, and manipulate a chisel with my right.  I don't know the proper name for it, but I used a roller that's supposed to support long pieces of stock as the thing that I rest the chisel on.
 

Here’s a test head I made so I wouldn’t ruin the real one.  The outer hole is drilled to something like 9/32″.  The inner section is first drilled to 1/4″, then the opening is expanded just a bit to 17/64″.  I can approximate a taper that way.  I used calipers when sanding the peg in my “lathe” to match the taper of the hole.  

The peg is a bit blackened in this photo because I rubbed it in coal dust.  That seems to give it a bit more of a hold.

Back to the neck
 
I trimmed the excess inlay from the neck with my trusty coping saw.
After some sanding…
 
With that done, I started shaping the head to accept tuners.  I bored some holes and chiseled the rest.
 
Box Building
I read somewhere that cedar makes a good soundbox, so I dug through a stack of some old cedar siding that used to be installed on our house until I found some sufficiently not rotten pieces.  
 
They're about 7/8″ thick on one side, then they taper down to 1/4″ or less on the bottom.  I wanted the sides of my box to be thin, less than a quarter inch.  I got to work with a plane to get them down to size.
 
It took a few hours.  It will take you less time, though.
 
pictured are the top and the sides.  I made the top (soundboard) thinner than the sides because a thinner membrane generally means brighter sound.
 
Here's the tail end of the box
box!  I glued and tacked it together
A piece of juniper harvested from our woods a few years ago
piece of juniper carved into the nut
first fret!  I used the fret calculator mentioned earlier to position it just right
clamping the bridge to the soundboard.
I could have used about five extra hands while setting this one up.
more frets
flush cut saw used for cutting fret slots
the soundboard was a bit flexy for my liking, so I added some maple bracing on  the back (soon to be inside)
done and strung!  I cut the soundhole by tracing out a circle, then drilling out small holes all along the perimeter.
with linseed oil.